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XC skiing books for Christmas - 3 (Nansen)

Date first posted on eCommunity - 5 November 2007

THE FIRST CROSSING OF GREENLAND
Fridtjof Nansen
Birlinn, Edinburgh. 2002
ISBN 1-84158-216-6

This is an abridged version of Nansen's classic "Pa Ski Over Groenland", which was originally published in Norwegian in 1890 and was then soon translated into several other languages. It tells the story of how in 1888 the explorer, with a team of five, made the first complete traverse of Greenland.

Nansen

The team's project was an audacious one. They would start from the uninhabited east coast and make for the inhabited west. Nansen's typically uncompromising rationale for doing the journey in that direction was that it would remove the temptation to turn back if they encountered problems. There would be no choice but to go forward.

Of central importance to Nansen was that the party should travel on skis, and in selecting his men he insisted that they were experienced skiers. Chapter two of the book is devoted to a history and description of skiing, "since so little is known about the sport outside the few countries where it is practised as such". It is a factual account, with information about ski construction and skiing technique. But it also contains some very enthusiastic promotion of the sport, as both a recreational and a competitive activity. For example:

"I know no form of sport which so evenly develops the muscles, which renders the body so strong and elastic, which teaches so well the qualities of dexterity and resource, which in an equal degree calls for decision and resolution, and which gives the same vigour and exhilaration to mind and body alike."

The eventual success of the expedition not only brought Nansen enormous publicity and honour but also contributed to a massive upsurge of interest in skiing throughout Europe and North America.

However, before the team members could show the effectiveness of their skis, they first had to make it to the east coast of Greenland, and this in itself was a major adventure that takes up almost half of the book. Setting out from Oslo at the beginning of May, they took one steamer from Oslo to Leith, then another via the Faroes to Iceland. Here they joined a sealing ship that would "do its best to put us ashore on the east coast of Greenland". In the event it was 17 July before they disembarked from the sealer and set off in their small boats. They had just ten miles of ice-floe to negotiate before landfall. But they were soon caught up in a strong current that carried them southwards and away from land, and it took them twelve days of very hazardous drifting before they did reach land, very much further south than they had intended. They had to fight back northwards in their boats, keeping very close to the coast, and it was mid-August before they reached a point at which they could begin their traverse of the Inland Ice.

The traverse itself was hardly a pleasant journey. First came the ascent on to the Inland ice, negotiating treacherous snow-covered crevasses: "As a matter of fact, we fell through rarely, and then only to our armpits". During this period it poured continuously with rain. More bad weather befell them as they gained height, and at one point they were unable to leave camp for three days. Finally they reached more gently sloping ground, and calmer weather, and climbed to an eventual height of just under 8,000 feet. "All this time", wrote Nansen, "our life was simply inordinately monotonous, with not a trace of any important occurrence." By now it was early September and the lateness of the season brought fresh snow, which impeded their progress and drifted at night through the many openings of their tent. And it grew very cold: one night their thermometer recorded -40 degrees Centigrade.

With much effort and much danger they finally made it, on 26 September, after about six weeks on the Inland ice, to the shores of the west coast. It took more adventure, including the construction of a makeshift boat from their sledges and tarpaulins, before they reached the safety of the Danish settlement at Godthaab. Here they found they had missed the last steamer of the year, and would need to spend the winter at the settlement.

When Nansen and the team finally made it back to Norway on 30 May in the following year they were welcomed as heroes. A flotilla of sailing boats met them in Christiania (Oslo) Fjord, a crowd of 60,000 was waiting by the pier, and 50,000 followed them through the streets to their hotel.

This account of their adventure is a nicely solid volume of about 300 pages, enlivened by some original photographs and drawings. It's a good book to curl up with on a dark winter's evening.
 

 

S. Montgomery, for XCuk


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